Vai Itālijas mīlas dēka ar ozolkoka vīna barrikām kļūst skāba? - Winestealssd.com

Spānijas amforas, kas pazīstamas kā tinajas, ir pārņēmušas no barikām Elisabetta Foradori vīna darītavā Trentīno

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Žurnāls: 2018. gada maija izdevums

Saimons Vulfs pēta ziņojumus par pretrevolūciju Itālijas vīna pagrabos ...

Paolo Casalis 2014. gada filmā ir īss, bet dramatisks brīdis Barolo zēni: Revolūcijas stāsts kad vīndaris Elio Altare aizved motorzāģi uz impozantu botti (tradicionālo lielo ozolkoka mucu) līniju, kas stāv viņa ģimenes pagrabā.

Viņam šo godājamo trauku rituālai iznīcināšanai, kas tika ieviesta 1983. gadā, bija praktisks mērķis - radīt vietu nesen nopirktiem, mazākiem franču ozolkoka bāriem. Bet spēcīgā simbolika bija skaidra - it kā nestabils, sabrucis botti pārstāvēja veco kārtību. Ideālu, nesen sadarbotu barriķu līnijas sūtīja skaidru modernitātes un stila vēstījumu.

Ritiniet uz leju, lai redzētu Woolf itāļu vīnu izvēli, kas izgatavoti bez ozola

Tas, kas 1983. gadā šķita progresīvs, līdz 90. gadu beigām prestižajām Itālijas vīna darītavām bija kļuvis par tradīciju. Bet pavisam nesen Barrique izšķirošais ozolkoka glāsts ir kritis par labu, sākot no Friuli ziemeļaustrumos līdz Sicīlijai dienvidos un visos punktos starp tiem.

Itālijas vīndari arvien vairāk pāriet uz alternatīviem materiāliem un traukiem fermentācijai un novecošanai, sākot no arkāna līdz pat tiešam.

Tur, kur kādreiz stāvēja bariki, tagad varētu būt amforas, gruzīnu kvevri, betona olas vai lielas akācijas mucas. Vai tas ir tikai modes skrejceļa cikliskais slīpējums vai daļa no izlēmīgākas virzības uz lielāku autentiskumu un izteiksmi?

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