Bordo 2010 Lafite Rothschild
Kas tas par tenisu? LINDA MURPHY pēta daudz niknoto, pārprasto, bet dažos aspektos novērtēto Brettanomyces pasauli.
Pirmajā vīna karjeras gadā es izlēju vīnu, demonstrējot top pudeles no visas pasaules. Pārtraukumā no stenda es apgāju istabu, lai nogaršotu daudzus citus piedāvājumus.
Kad es atgriezos pie sava galda, blakus esošais vīndaris jautāja: “Vai kaut kas jums patiešām atstāja iespaidu?” ‘1989. gada Châteauneuf-du-Pape no Bâteau de Château de Beaucastel,’ es atbildēju. Viņš noburkšķēja: 'Jums jāmīl Brets.' Lai arī es nezināju, kas tajā laikā bija Brets - Brettanomyces (breh-tan-uh-MYE-sees), es dievināju Beaucastel zemes, ādaino, kūpināto bekonu un garšvielu raksturu. , gaļīgi augļi un stingra struktūra.
Vēlāk es uzzināšu, ka Brets, dabiski sastopams raugs, kas vēl nav kaitīgs patērēšanai, var darīt gan labas, gan sliktas lietas vīna aromātiem un garšām, būtu vīndaru aktuāla tēma, un debatēs nav skaidra uzvarētāja.
Vintners to sauc par “B vārdu”, un labākajā gadījumā Brettanomyces var dot vīnam to, ko daudzi uzskata par pozitīvām īpašībām, kas papildina sarežģītību un dziļumu: cimdu ādas, kūpinātas gaļas, bekona tauku, tabakas, trifeļu, krustnagliņu un citu pikantu garšu. garšvielas.
Tomēr, kad B kļūst slikts, tas var dot vīnam aizskarošu smaku, kas piemīt sētam, kūtsmēsliem, plāksteriem, mitram sunim, nosvīdušai zirga segai, peles izkārnījumiem un antiseptiskiem līdzekļiem. Baidoties no pēdējā, daudzi vīndari visā pasaulē dara visu iespējamo, lai novērstu Breta piesārņojumu.
Citi mudina to mazliet, lai iegūtu papildu interesi, tomēr ir smagi jāstrādā, lai savvaļas raugs nepārvarētu šķirnes raksturu un auglību. Citi, labi, pieņemsim, ka, ja tīrība ir blakus dievbijībai, daži vīndari neiet uz baznīcu. Tie, kas apgalvo goût de terroir par savu negaršo pudeļu pildīšanu, tikai attaisno antisanitāras darbības.
Draugs vai ienaidnieks?
Ir vairāki Brettanomyces celmi un teorijas par tiem, un pilnīgai diskusijai ir nepieciešama mikrobioloģijas tēze. Vienkāršāk ir divi vīnu pārveidojošie savienojumi, kas identificēti ar Brett: 4-etilguajakols (4-piem.), Kas daudzu domā par bekonu un garšvielām un 4-etilfenols 4-ep) ar negatīvajiem apmetumiem, mitru suņu un zāļu īpašības.
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Interesanti Raksti
