Terroir ir viens no tiem vārda vārdiem, ko vīna pasaulē uztver visi, bet ko tas patiesībā nozīmē? Un vai tas tiešām ietekmē vīnus, par kuriem apgalvo ražotāji? Ruperts Džojs dziļi rakt, lai to uzzinātu
Terroir ir viens no tiem vārda vārdiem, ko vīna pasaulē uztver visi, bet ko tas patiesībā nozīmē? Un vai tas tiešām ietekmē vīnus, par kuriem apgalvo ražotāji? Ruperts Džojs dziļi rakt, lai to uzzinātu
zilās asinis 8. sezona 10. sērija
Uz dienvidiem no Kondjē Ronas ziemeļos atrodas niecīgais Château-Grillet nosaukums. Tā 3,4 hektāri vīnogulāju dabiskā amfiteātra stāvajās nogāzēs rada nelielu daudzumu vīna no tās pašas vīnogu šķirnes un augsnes kā daudz lielākais kaimiņš Condrieu. Bet kopš 1936. gada tas ir atzīts par atsevišķu maiņstrāvu un tiek pārdots par daudz vairāk. Tās īpašniece Isabelle Baratin-Canet uzsver, ka vīna, kas izgatavots no tā granīta augsnēm un uz dienvidiem vērstās ekspozīcijas, oriģinalitāte ir atzīta gadsimtiem ilgi. Bet daži no viņas kaimiņiem apšauba, vai starp Château-Grillet un Condrieu terroiriem pastāv šāda atšķirība.
Ideja, ka īpaši zemes gabali ražo īpaši lieliskus vīnus, nav jauna. Filozofs Džons Loks, kurš 1677. gadā apmeklēja Bordo, atzīmēja Château Haut-Brion ‘augsnes īpatnības’, kas to atšķīra no kaimiņiem. Abbota Arnoux grāmata, kas tika izdota Londonā 1728. gadā, Burgundijas Montrāčes varenību attiecināja uz konkrētu zemes joslu Ziloņkaula krastā.
Mūsdienu parādība ir vārda ‘terroir’ izmantošana, lai aprakstītu ideju. Tās sākotnējās franču valodas pieskaņa bija nomierinoša. Līdz 20. gadsimta vidum vin terroité nozīmēja zemniecisku, zemes vīnu ar labākajā gadījumā sava veida yokel šarmu un sliktākajā gadījumā ar kļūdām. Vīns ar goût de terroir (terroir aromātu) bija nepietiekami pagatavots vīns, kas garšoja no negatavām vai sapuvušām vīnogām. Ideja par terroir kā pozitīvāku atribūtu radās tikai līdz AC sistēmas dzimšanai 1930. gados.
Katram ir sava terroir definīcija. Varbūt visvienkāršākais ir amerikāņu vīna rakstnieks Mets Kramers, kurš to raksturo kā ‘kaut kur’. Lielākā daļa franču valodas definīciju, ieskaitot INAO (iestāde, kas atbild par Francijas maiņstrāvas sistēmu), ietver četrus galvenos elementus: vietas fiziskās īpašības (īpaši augsne un iedarbība), tās klimats, izmantotā vīnogu šķirne un cilvēka loma .
skandāls 2. sezona 7. sērija
Tikai daži cilvēki apstrīd pamatnoteikumu, ka vīniem ir noteiktas īpašības no to vīnogu audzēšanas vietas un ka cilvēkam ir nozīme šo īpašību izteikšanā. Bet, ņemot vērā to, ka gandrīz katrs vīna ražotājs mūsdienās apgalvo, ka ražo vīnus, kas respektē terroir, un apgalvo, ka izmanto “neiejaukšanās” pieeju, patērētājam ir pamats domāt, ko terroir nozīmē praksē.
kurš šovakar uzvarēja hoh par lielo brāli
Terroir saknes
Varbūt tāpēc, ka šis vārds ir līdzīgs ‘reljefam’, mēs mēdzam saistīt terroir galvenokārt ar augsni. Tas savukārt var veicināt priekšstatu, ka vīni tieši iegūst garšu no augsnes, kurā tie tiek audzēti.
Klasisks piemērs ir Chablis, viens no pasaulē atpazīstamākajiem vīniem. Neskatoties uz to, ka to ražo no visuresošās vīnogu šķirnes, Chardonnay Chablis izteiksme atšķiras no jebkura cita reģiona izteiksmes. Visvairāk pazīstamo vīnu nāk no mīkstās kimmeridžiešu krīta merģes, kas sastāv no aizvēsturiskām austeru čaulām.
Ražotāji un vīna rakstnieki bieži saista vīna raksturīgo krama-joda garšu un reģiona ģeoloģiju. “Kā gan citādi jūs varat izskaidrot Chablis jodētās piezīmes, ja ne ar tās augsnes sastāvu?” Vaicā Bernārs Bilods-Simons. 'Jūs neatrodat šo garšu Chardonnays, kas audzēta citur.'
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Interesanti Raksti
