Barolo 2009,
Toms Maresca bija ļoti vīlies par šo 2009. gada degustāciju, minot vīndaru nespēja pievērsties vīnogu ražas sarežģītībai kā vienu no iemesliem šai 'bēdīgajai' izrādei.
“Daži 2009. gadi attaisnoja optimismu attiecībā uz viņu ilgmūžību, un lielākā daļa producentu par 2009. gadu runāja par īstermiņa dzeršanas gadu.”
2009. gada vīnogu raža Barolo saskarsies ar patērētājiem ar dažām skarbām patiesībām un dažiem skarbiem vīniem. Es nogaršoju vairāk nekā 200 Barolo 2009 piemēru Nebbiolo Prima, Albā, maijā. Lielākajai daļai vīnu, kas tika piedāvāti pasākuma piecās dienās, trūka ne tikai klasiskās Nebbiolo krāsas, bet arī gandrīz nebija Nebbiolo aromātu vai garšu.
Es mīlu Barolo, un es cienu un apbrīnoju daudzus tā producentus par viņu centību un redzējuma skaidrību. Tomēr man jāsaka, ka šajā gadalaikā daudzu no viņiem snieguma vienkārši netrūka, tas bija drūms.
Protams, bija izņēmumi: vairāki producenti - Džakomo Fenokio, Aldo Konterno, Prunotto - dažiem izrādījās diezgan dzerams Barolo. Daži - īpaši Pio Cesare un Massolino-Vigna Rionda - pat tic vīna novecošanās potenciālam. Šo viedokli bieži atkārtoja tirgotāji un pircēji, kuri šo vīnu izlasi nobaudīja nedēļu agrāk nekā žurnālisti, un kopā ar ražotājiem (ne akliem). Bet, manuprāt, un, pēc daudzu žurnālistu domām, ar kuriem es runāju, lielākā daļa Barolo veidotāju, šķiet, ir stipri nenovērtējuši šīs vintage grūtības. Daži 2009. gadi attaisnoja optimismu par viņu ilgmūžību, un lielākā daļa ražotāju par 2009. gadu runāja par īstermiņa dzeršanas gadu.
Giacomo Conterno no vīna darītavas Aldo Conterno Monforte komūnā bija viens no izteiksmīgākajiem ražotājiem. Viņš teica: “2009. gads bija vīnkopju vīnogu raža. Augusta beigās daži [Nebbiolo] vīnogulāji jau bija gandrīz nogatavojušies, un daži bija pilnīgi negatavi - gandrīz 30 dienu starpība starp tiem. Tas, ko jūs darījāt ar to, noteica, kādu vīnu jūs gatavojāt. ”Šā gada ražas konsorcijs parasti ir ļoti apsargāts:
“2009. gada vīnogu raža paliks atmiņā arī ar tās neregulāro nogatavināšanas modeli… Attiecībā uz tehnoloģisko nogatavināšanu vīnogu ražu var ievietot laikā no 2003. līdz 2007. gadam ... Attiecībā uz fenola nogatavināšanu ... vīnogās atrastie dati bija salīdzināmi ar 2003. gada… šajā ražas novākšanas laikā ne vienmēr rezultāti tika uzlaboti. ”
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Raksta Toms Mareska
Interesanti Raksti
